I've had a few
Logitech K750s now and while they usually work great for about 2-3 months, they're notoriously bad for recharging and keeping a charge. Tired of dealing with this obvious flaw, I decided to "upgrade" mine to be a USB-charged battery-powered keyboard with a heftier battery.
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Peeling off the glued front cover. (I salvaged my solar panels for another project since I wasn't going to need them) |
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Removing all the screws and popping the clips reveal the insides of the K750,
an Atmel ATXMEGA32D4-AU and a Nordic NRF24L01. |
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On the reverse side of the PCB Logitech was nice enough to break out power & SPI to pads for us. |
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Without any disassembling, the original battery holder is removable with a little bit of prying and wiggling. |
Taking some measurements with calipers and a little time in SketchUp, I recreated the battery insert with channels for some stripped solid core 22AWG wire to slide through. This provided a nice contact to the battery terminals inside without requiring any disassembly and a case for our new battery. Out with the old 65mAh coin-cell, in with the new
1000mAh LiPo (that should last a little longer and I had one laying around already...)
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The 90 degree block was made as a separate piece due to too much friction while inserting the wire. |
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The first prototype, printed @ 230C/105C HBP. 0.2mm 50 travel/80 feed, 2 shells. |
The original ML2032 is a 3v whereas our new LiPo is 3.7v. This shouldn't be a problem since the old solar cells output 4v to charge the coin-cell on the same circuit, so the regulator should be able to handle 4.2v. Testing a few points around the board, it appeared everything was powered by the regulated 2v "V_MAIN".
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Plugged in and functional. |
There's plenty of room for improvement but it serves it's purpose for now. It could use a bit of work in the aesthetics department and I originally planned on adding a LiPo charger with a microusb connector but it's been 3 months now and the battery voltage has only dropped ~0.05v, I'm probably not going to be needing it anytime soon... Maybe 1000mAh was a little overkill.
Like any wireless keyboard, "secure" or not, encryption on these devices are a joke. But I'm sure I'm not the only one who sits at their PC in a Faraday cage right?
Could you elaborate a bit on the PCB test points? My K750 has gone dead and I would like to check, if there is some life left on the PCB...
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Björn
Nice! want to do the same, but with a 18650 on top. Can you share the stl for the insert clip? Thank you in advance!!
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